JMueller’s BBQ

By Ginny, on January 11th, 2012

A recent trip to JMueller’s BBQ on South First proved the long anticipated return of John Mueller to Austin’s BBQ scene was well worth the wait. With my visiting Texan-turned-New Yorker younger brother Jerry in tow, I was given a tall order to provide him with a last taste of real Texas BBQ before he returned to the Big Apple. I took a small gamble on JMueller’s, having never been, but packed lines and solid word of mouth assured me it was a lock.

Mueller’s approach to barbecue is classic and straightforward. His brisket, for example, is seasoned with a simple salt and pepper rub before slow cooking the meat on direct heat until done. Trustworthy barbecue loving friends have touted the resulting brisket as perfectly cooked, tender, and moist. Alas, picnic tables filled with folks taking advantage of a surprisingly warm winter day beat us to the brisket. However, sausage sandwiches served on white bread and topped with pickles and onions were an excellent alternative. The handmade beef sausage had just the right amount of saltiness and spiciness. While the sausage was plenty flavorful alone, Mueller’s barbecue sauce kicked it up a notch. JMueller’s sauce is tangy and spicy, balanced with chunks of sweet onions, vinegar, and a well developed peppery flavor. Many hardcore barbecue fans find it somewhat sinful to douse high quality meat with sauce, but JMueller’s version is too delicious not to throw on a spoonful or two. The spicy theme of JMueller’s was also evident in the sides. A fellow diner recommended milder palates steer clear of the coleslaw, and we instead opted for potato salad. It might have been milder than the coleslaw, but this potato salad certainly packed a punch with its bold mustard flavor. It also just might have been the best potato salad tasted in recent memory.

Before opening in early fall, much had been said about the man, the myth, the legend John Mueller, as he will gladly detail for you himself. It is certainly nice to see his new spot more than living up to the preopening hype. John Mueller’s barbecue might play homage to the traditions ingrained in him from his Taylor, TX youth, but the first-rate execution and fiery kick in his dishes makes it all his own.

JMueller’s BBQ’s South First Street trailer is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10:30 until sold out. I recommend getting there early for best selling meats, especially on beautiful days, prime rib Fridays, and weekends.