Since first opening Haddington’s has evolved slowly, but significantly.  In recent weeks I have visited Haddington’s on a few occasions, including lunch service detailed below. From my first visit to the most recent, Haddington’s has always had, in my opinion, exceptional service, something I am thrilled to see has remained consistent despite changes. When Haddington’s first opened, (review here) the ambiance, cocktail list, and experience were wonderful, but the meal left a bit to be desired. I loved the American/British tavern theme, but it just needed a little editing; this is something Chef Jimmy Corwell’s addition has brought to the kitchen. The shift from heavy, rustic entrees to more finessed dishes was certainly welcomed, as I mentioned here, but with more delicate presentations and options popping up on the menu, I hope Haddington’s doesn’t veer too far from its unique conceptual roots.

As my recent lunch foray proved, Haddington’s menu plays with showcasing upscale versions of classic rustic American food and gussied up modern American dishes. We started with the white bean puree and truffled egg custard pots, which were amazing as always. These little $4 gems are absolutely a must order on any Haddington’s visit, especially the truffled egg custard. Continue reading [expand title=Here] Next was a bowl of chilled melon soup; it was refreshing and beautifully presented, but I was a bit disappointed by the scallop ceviche which was more of a garnish than a featured component. While I really did enjoy the soup, it was missing a little extra kick of flavor to balance the sweetness of the melon. I split a bowl of vegetable risotto, which proved to be a wise decision since Haddington’s doesn’t mess around with the risotto portion size. The risotto was extremely creamy, almost polenta like in texture. Instead of cooking the vegetable mixture in the risotto, it was placed on top of the rice. Normally, I prefer my risotto a little more al dente, but in this case the creamy, subtle risotto worked against the texture and earthiness of the vegetables. The tavern roots of Haddington’s were, however, showcased with the burger and fries. It was a feat to take on and quite possibly gave new meaning to a ‘knife and fork burger’. Topped simply with ample amounts of cheese and delicious, creative wine braised leeks, the star of the burger is the meat. The thick patty was juicy and messy, but worth every napkin needed. The bun was a little to toasted, which made it a little tough to dig into, but somehow the burger still disappeared rather quickly. The fries served alongside are amazingly crisp, salty and everything a fry should be.

Haddington’s embraces fine dining in a casual, laid back setting, but updating the menu too drastically may trickle over and change this element. Because Chef Corwell focuses on a regularly changing menu based on seasonal availability, the dog days of summer naturally give way to more pristine, lighter dishes, and perhaps this is one main reason for less ‘tavern-eque’ options.  Figuring out how to walk the fine line between staying in the niche of the restaurant concept and still appealing to mass tastes is no easy task, but Chef Corwell and the Haddington’s team seem well on the way to mastering it. [/expand]

Haddington’s. 601 W. 6th Street, Austin, Texas 78701. http://www.haddingtonsrestaurant.com/

Pots with Soldiers - $4 each

Continue reading Lunch @ Haddington’s